Discover Teesdale
27 August 2014
The north of England is well known for its open countryside, pretty villages, friendly locals and the odd flat cap. I think most people have heard of the Lake District (Beatrix Potter), the Peak District (Peak Practice), the Yorkshire Dales (James Herriot) and the Northumberland coast (Harry Potter). But what about the spots in between those well-known destinations that have not had the publicity that popular TV and film provides?
Well just to the north of the Yorkshire Dales lies my part of the world, Teesdale in County Durham. This quiet and picturesque dale is by no means a high profile place despite some rather impressive claims to fame (keep reading to find out!). As the name suggests, it is based around the banks of the river Tees which in its lower course runs out to sea via the industrial town of Middlesbrough and the steel clad banks of Teesport, the third largest port in the country. Follow this river inland, thirty or so miles west and the contrast could not be more marked.
As the river runs from its middle to upper course you find yourself in the sparsely populated area of Teesdale with pretty little villages (such as Headlam!), open countryside and an economy driven by agriculture, tourism and a GSK plant in the dales capital town of Barnard Castle. ‘Barny’, as it is locally known, is a charming market town built around the 12th century castle, now a ruin but still an impressive attraction run by English Heritage. The town is also home to Bowes Museum which is a remarkable building that you would probably expect to see in northern France rather than northern England. Have a look for yourself and you will see exactly what I mean! This excellent museum has had significant investment in recent years and houses internationally renowned collections making it a great way to spend a rainy day.
Beyond Barnard Castle you are into idyllic dales countryside with picture-postcard villages like Romaldkirk, the setting for our own charming 18th century inn, the Rose & Crown, which stands next to a Saxon church known locally as ‘the Cathedral of the Dales’. A few miles further up the river Tees you will find the first of the ‘claims to fame’ that I mentioned earlier. High Force is where the river Tees drops some seventy feet making this the tallest waterfall in England. It is an impressive sight at any time but visit after some heavy rainfall and the thunderous roar of the water is fabulous to experience as you can walk right to its base from the nearby car park. I should also mention Low Force, just a couple of miles below its ‘High’ sibling. This series of waterfalls and rapids would itself be the main attraction on many a river.
Another few miles up and we are really heading into the wilds of Upper Teesdale. Here we have those vast open spaces and dramatic landscapes (thanks to the effects of glaciation) that make you wonder about the bigger picture of life. I suppose it is the feeling of insignificance as you stand in such places that prompt these thoughts. Widdybank is probably my favourite place to visit along the Tees. This really is a stunning environment and as such is a designated Natural Nature Reserve, North Pennines Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty and a European Geopark! Apart from the scenery you will find the extremely rare arctic-alpine flora, a remnant of the ice age and some very rare birds such as Golden Plover, Ring Ouzel and Black Grouse. As you follow the challenging path that heads up this section of the river you pass through an eerie yet beautiful steep sided corridor of rock before arriving at the spectacle of Cauldron Snout. We passed England’s tallest waterfall a few miles down-river but now it is time for England’s longest waterfall at some six hundred feet of roaring water, speeding over the dolerite steps of the Whin Sill, just below the dam of Cow Green reservoir. You can walk, or I should say ‘scramble’ up the side of the fall which requires a degree of agility and care but is well worth the effort.
Teesdale really is an undiscovered haven and as such is a very quiet corner of northern England in which you can truly escape. Have a look for yourself but don’t tell too many people!